The Evolution of the Tie
By Lola R. & Dalma S.
Edited by Jules Nasser
We rarely notice the tie, so common, we have become used to them. They serve as a finishing touch, from formal business wear to school uniforms. To some, it may be basic and overly-formal, but in celebration of World Cravat day, we explore the history of the tie across eras; simple yet significant. How did ties evolve from a practical adornment to a must-have streetwear accessory?
Neck cloths, a piece of cloth tied around the neck, have been used for centuries. From ancient Egyptians placing the Knot of Isis around the necks of mummies, to the Chinese Terracotta army where they symbolized soldiers’ ranks. It wasn't until the 30 years war in the 17th century, where the Croats wore scarves tied around the neck, that it became such a prominent accessory. The French appropriated them, and began to call them the “cravat.” This brought ties to the elite upper class. In fact, the word “cravat,” French for tie, comes from a poor pronunciation of Croat.
“The cravat “binds” together freedom and responsibility. It encourages us to be more aware of the communication of our dignity and the dignity of others – our freedom, but also our responsibility. Due to its enormous symbolic power, the cravat is of great significance for Croatia and the world,” says Marijan Bušić from Academia Cravatica association.
Since 18th of October 2008, World Cravat Day has been celebrated. From the 17th to 18th centuries, black and white were the main colors used, for day and night respectively. This could be the reason ‘black tie,’ and ‘white tie,’ are the main dress codes today. As ties evolved from skinny to thicker, shorter ties such as a kipper tie, they also evolved in color and pattern. This allowed them to act as forms of expression, rather than restrictive. In the early 20th century, women wore neckties to rebel against gender norms. A key female figure is Marlene Dietrich, a famous actress from Hollywood's Golden Age, who historian Kate Lemay says “brought androgyny to the silver screen”. Born in Berlin in 1901 and becoming a U.S. citizen in 1939, she challenged strict ideas of femininity and lifestyle and proclaimed, “I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men.” She continues to be an influential figure of the LGBTQ+ community.
SAINT LAURENT - MEN'S SUMMER 26 SHOW
Ties are having a moment this year as they are appearing frequently on runways, or as a stylish touch to streetwear outfits. More and more people have been breaking away from the traditional ways of wearing ties and instead experimenting with creative ways of layering, texture, bold patterns, and colours, rather than sticking to the formal monochrome suit-and-tie combination. The recent years have seen the rise of unconventional tie styling, catching the eye of notable fashion designers. A prominent feature of the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week were colourful ties tucked under the buttons of silk shirts with contrasting hues. Other fashion houses highlighted neckties within their Spring Summer 2026 collections. Dior displayed inside-out ties worn over the shirt collar and ties with complicated knots which almost blended in with the shirt below. Celine exhibited ties that were cut horizontally at the waist.
Ties have clearly evolved from their first appearance as practical and status symbols, confined to formal occasions, to an innovative and versatile accessory that allows for creativity and self-expression.
Works cited
"MEN'S SUMMER 26." Saint Laurent, www.ysl.com/en-us/collections/la-maison-men-summer-26-show?srsltid=AfmBOoqOamKHD0NOVJoTPP0USXbuZXF0nPxDXxL24Ja85_1Ojzy8zGtx. Accessed 16 Oct. 2025.
O'Keeffe, Ella. "The Necktie Is The Biggest Accessory Trend This Season." Coveteur, 11 July 2025, coveteur.com/tie-trend. Accessed 16 Oct. 2025.
“Croatian invention celebrated as World Cravat Day is marked today.” Croatia Week, 18 October 2023, https://www.croatiaweek.com/croatian-invention-celebrated-as-world-cravat-day-is-marked-today/. Accessed 21 October 2025.
Henderson, Amy. “The Pioneering Androgyny of Classic Hollywood Star Marlene Dietrich.” Smithsonian Magazine, 29 June 2017, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/pioneering-androgyny-classic-hollywood-star-marlene-dietrich-180963842/. Accessed 21 October 2025.
R. Hanauer. “The History of the Tie.” R. Hanauer, 21 December 2022, https://bowties.com/blogs/the-gentlemans-guide/history-of-the-tie?srsltid=AfmBOoqLD_cTCHQCJ7PwMXyxjFqlDkaNaH56FavpLTiJfS0d8290M5fG. Accessed 21 October 2025.
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